For as many trips as I have made to Kansas City (3 hours away), I rarely take the time to stop in St Jo except to gas up or get a snack at McDonalds on the south edge of town, always in a hurry. Recently, we took a slow trip home on the side roads and discovered a wealth of history and beauty both architecturally and in nature.
My husband seldom travels but loves to do the back roads and make stops when he does. I should have seen this coming when we dated, 23 hours to get home from Colorado (normally a 7-9 hour trip). If he would have stopped to pick up one more stone or seedling, I might have lost it. Shortly after we were married, it was a five hour trip versus three hours back from Kansas City. We landed in Rulo Nebraska at 11 p.m., still 90 minutes from home. We were lost in Rulo, the notorious spot where a cult was discovered after two bodies were found in 1985. This time the lazy trip back from Kansas City however was far less harrowing and much more enjoyable.
We gassed up in Platte City and hustled up I-29 only to get off again in 20 minutes to discover St Jo. It’s an older town, founded in 1843, with a real population boon and building of wealth from manufacturing during the late 1880s and early 1900s. Many world-famous architects were summoned to build both personal and public structures. Since then St. Jo has enjoyed more growth, less than an hour from Kansas City, with lots of new housing across the highway and in the hills by the river. Downtown however is historically rich with beautiful stone architecture, the churches, theaters, municipal buildings and museums. We stopped on one hill that overlooked both the new and the old buildings along with some well-placed sculptures…..really beautiful.
Known for its Wild West heritage as the home of the Pony Express and Jesse James, I was surprised at the culture available. The Gothic style Wyeth-Tootle Mansion at the corner of 11th & Charles, 43 rooms, is just one example that was commissioned to be built. It sits up on the hill with a panoramic view of both the city and the Missouri River. Nearby is the Bordeaux Louisiana Seafood & Steaks Restaurant. This authentic Creole and Cajun establishment, inside a wonderfully restored late 1800s warehouse building, has seafood, chicken, gumbo, steaks, salads and a full bar. Locals love the homemade onion rings and Cajun gravy.
The Patee House is a glorious hotel turned 19th century museum with two floors of exhibits. You can view an 1860s train, ride a vintage carousel and experience an authentic railroad depot, stagecoach and other memorabilia from the era. There is even a wing dedicated to replicate St Jo during the 1860s and 1880s. The Barbosa Castillo, also built during that time, hosts an authentic Mexican restaurant with the best homemade chips in the world. They also have great salsa and enchiladas which we enjoyed in this historic atmosphere.
In all, there are over 50 listings on the National Register of Historic Places in the city. An amazing parkway system that winds through 26 miles of the city from North to South was built during the early 1900s and placed on the National Register for Historic Places in 1995. It keeps growing and is maintained through a financial gift from George Bode (1868-1955). Other National Historic sites include the Cathedral Hill Historic District, the Central Police Station, the Kemper Addition Historic District, the Missouri Theatre where you might find a Broadway-like show or a traveling musical revue of the Beatles, the Robidoux Resident Theater with visiting famous comedians and the Robidoux Landing Playhouse. There is a 1.5-mile walking or driving tour booklet that is available at the main Convention and Visitors Bureau at 911 Frederick Ave, 816-233-6688 or the Visitors Center at 502 N Woodbine 816-232-1839.
While you are downtown don’t miss stopping by the famed Pony Express Museum. Back in 1860 a lone rider left the stables in St Joseph with saddle bags headed for Sacrament California. This human chain of riders passing the saddle bags of mail and packages was an attempt at uniting the country and the precursor to our mail system. Today you can visit rooms with educational and hands-on exhibits, a Blacksmith shooing a horse and a farmer pulling an oxen and wagon. These life-size sculptures give a real feel for being back in those days. One of my favorites is a fascinating coin collection from the 1860s. I’ve definitely put this place on my list to revisit with my grandchildren and I can hear them now, “Did you have cars or horses when you were little grandma?” I will also make it a point to stop by the Jesse James House next to the Patee House. This is where the legend Jesse was shot by Bob Ford in 1882. I know that will get their attention. Another stop when you have the kids is St Jo’s Aquatic Park with a huge public pool, a 203 foot water slide and a 300 foot lazy river.
But this trip was spent in touring museums, dining and taking wonderful pictures of great architecture. The Albrecht-Kemper Museum of Art displays American art of the 1800s up to the 21st century. An unusual museum, the Glore Psychiatric, chronicles the 130 year history of this asylum in St Joseph plus the evolution of the mental health field in this country. This museum is actually part of a complex called the St Joseph Museum Complex which includes the Glore Psychiatric, The Wyeth-Tootle Mansion, the St Joseph Museum (well known Native American collection) and the Black Archives founded by a local high school teacher Jewel Robinson in 1991. Their Hall of Fame wing interested me with the display of the famous jazz saxophonist Coleman Hawkins who was born and raised in St Joseph.
After a meal at Boudreaux’s Louisiana Seafood on 4th street, we still had two hours to get home over the Missouri River Bridge through lots of flatland and farms. That meant I had to leave the Walter Cronkite Memorial for another time. The next two hours were beautiful and peaceful in its Midwestern way, and I was grateful for our last stop at Kimmel Orchards outside of Nebraska City to stock up on popcorn, pies, salsa and salad dressing. It was a little too early for apples. I’m afraid I don’t savor the countryside as much as my husband but have to admit it was a relaxing and interesting couple of days versus the mad dash we usually do.