Venice is definitely a place you need to see in person. I remember feeling this way about the Swiss Alps and the Grand Canyon the first time I saw them. Is seems as if pictures cannot do these destinations justice.
When we landed in Venice, the smells in the airport made me nauseous, the restroom was dirty, and the dogs sniffing all the suitcases didn’t help. I thought here we go again as I remembered a unpleasant visit to San Remo Italy in 1978. Dogs, roamed the streets with muzzles, and “Go Home Americans” was sprayed on the buildings and walls outside. However after a couple days in Venice, I changed my mind about parts of Italy at least. One thing I noticed right away was more public restrooms without nasty, disgruntled attendants collecting coins. Also shop keepers were a little nicer about allowing you to use their restroom. Figured Europe had come a long way in accommodating tourists since 1978 just like the United States.
We stayed in the Laguna Palace, a hotel in the Mestre area on the mainland, because there were no rooms available on the island. I was disappointed at first not to be staying on the Grand Canal, however it turned out very well and was a little less expensive than some of the hotels right in Venice. It was clean, modern and only a short cab ride from the airport as well as the Piazzale Roma where the buses stop and the ferry boats, valparettos’ as they are called in Venice, dock. Everyone in the Piazzale has to cross an elegant bridge to get onto Venice proper. It’s quite a site with strolling couples, mothers pushing baby carriages, old folks on canes and even in wheelchairs, and lots of people dragging suitcases. You can get a water taxi almost directly to your hotel on the island, however it’s 100 to 120 Euros (about $140) from the airport to the island so most visitors opt for the valparetto (6-10 Euros) that takes you to the Piazzale. Then it’s a trek over the bridge and down narrow streets to your hotel. It could be five minutes walk or 35 minutes depending on the hotel you book.
Venice was inviting. The people were very friendly and seemed genuinely happy to see tourists. With the gondolas, soft music and shimmering lights on the canals, it felt romantic. Although our meal the first night was nothing to brag about, we had a delightful visit with a British chap and his Canadian lady-friend who now lives in Bulgaria. That’s always one of the added benefits and my favorite part of travel, the warm, interesting people you meet along the way.
The next day we headed over to the island early by taxi and then the valparetto so we could experience Venice and it’s splendor from the water. Walking along the canals and over the bridges while admiring the Gothic and Moorish architecture, reminded me of the classic movie Casanova or The Tourist with Angelina Jolie & Johnny Depp. I highly recommend either of these if you want to get a good feel for Venice. Romance permeates throughout the city despite the kiosks. These little huts dotted the walkways and community plazas with vendors selling scarves, gondolier shirts and hats, traditional souvenirs and Carnivale pins, plus masks of every shape and size.
Carnivale, the annual festival, is held every February and after hearing of a friend’s trip there in the early 1990s, I decided I had to go to Venice someday. Several locals told us Carnivale in February is no longer a good time to visit, too crowded like Mardi Gras in the states. Even our September visit found the streets, hotels and valparettos very full. Venice offers many very fine shops with beautiful clothing, jewelry, leather goods, sweets and liquor. I’m not much of a shopper but managed to poke into a few places and browse. I finally purchased a gondola charm for a bracelet I’m putting together from our travels over the years. I doubt I will ever wear it but figure it will be a good keepsake for one of our granddaughters
At noon, we stopped to eat and our food expectations were finally met. The wiener-schnitzel was crisp, the bread fresh and the seafood excellent. The wine was good, generous servings and not very pricey. The coffee served with whip cream left no room for dessert. The Europeans have always known the art of dining well. As we lingered over coffee, traditional gondolas floated by with handsome, slim gondoliers at the helm. In their traditional black and white striped shirts and black hats, they entertained their passengers. An occasional water taxi, a modern speed boat with an inboard motor and luxurious modern leather seats, zipped by, The valparettos zig-zagged the Grand Canal and circled the islands transporting large numbers of people from one spot to another on the main island of Venice or between Murano, the glass blowers’ island, and Burano where the lace is made. In Venice you either walk or go by boat.
We boated over to Murano to see the glass blowers and both fell in love with a hand-blown piece that looked like a multi-color wave. Even though it was a distinctive piece of art, the price tag for $6000 meant we would leave it behind in the showroom.
The gigantic Basillica anchors St Mark’s Square or Piazza San Marco where many outdoor cafes enable visitors to rest and take pictures of this impressive landmark.. We sat and listened to a Symphony concert that afternoon, and then window-shopped around the outer edge of the Piazza. The warm fall day with fragrant flowers, tempting restaurant smells and soothing classical music was a refreshing contrast to the crowds of people and made for a pleasant afternoon. The combination of old architecture draped with modern advertisements amongst big churches and outdoor cafes filled with white draped tables and real napkins, polished silver and glasses of wine assured me I was back in Europe. This unique city has an appeal all its own and is not to be missed, even if only for a day.